Scotland 2005

Friday - Northern Exposure

Wed - Thu - Fri - Sat - Sun

After a very good night in the bunk room, Bill cooked us both oatcakes with sausage and beans for breakfast, cheers Bill.

Outside it was the usual grey, damp morning. The F650 on the left belonged to a very nice couple from South Africa.

09.30 First stop Ullapool, (multimap) to top up with fuel, sensibly, we had agreed never to let the fuel drop below half a tank. Personally, I wasn't too impressed with Ullapool, seemed more of a small industrial port than a fishing port, perhaps it looks better when the sun comes out.

Loch Broom from Ullapool

14 miles North of Ullapool on the A835 we came across the Elphin Tea Room, completely in the middle of nowhere, an oasis not to be passed (multimap) and we arrived just in time to miss a downpour.

What a great place! scones baked on the premises and served up piping hot with butter!

The road in to Elphin from the South, lovely place, but don't let it fool you, it was raining :)

After the rain had stopped we set off again and soon came across Ardvreck Castle (multimap) this picture is made up from three stitched together with PTGui Panorama stitching software.

A few miles further on, the view looking back over over Kylstrome (multimap)

Around 10 miles short of Durness, it started to rain and it was pretty heavy, we arrived in Durness and slowly drove around, it seems quite a spread out little community, and there wasn't much to see. We were really glad to find the Smoo Caves Hotel for Shelter and Lunch (multimap)

Nobody batted an eyelid as we stood in the entrance of the pub with the rain dripping off us. We dumped our things on one table, then sat at another and enjoyed coffee, burger and chips while the rain lashed against the window...

Around 13.30 it looked like the worst was over, so we saddled up and headed out before the residents decided to do the Wicker Man thing on us :)

How wrong we were, it chucked it down and blew a gale for the next few hours :( I'm sorry for the lack of pictures but my camera (Canon 350d) isn't water proof. We stopped and helped a couple whose exhaust had broken along the way (well done Bill, your a better man than I am). To be honest the scenery was superb, but in those conditions we couldn't enjoy it, I wish I'd fitted my handlebar muffs!

15.30 We didn't really stop for the next 70 miles when we got to the Falls of Shin visitors centre (multimap), The cafe here is ok, in fact the best piece of Banoffee Pie I have ever had, but the falls were disappointing :(

The Falls of Shin, stitched up from five pictures.

So after warming up and drying out a little, we rode on to our third nights accommodation at Sleeperzzz adjoining Rogart railway station, £10 a night (multimap)

'Tonight... Bill and Ebbo... you will be sleeping... first class!'

Our compartment, seating on the left, twin bunks on the right. The owners asked if we wanted the heating on tonight? you betcha!

Kitchen, left and right.

The sitting room

There's also a bathroom and shower in each coach, all very nice.

Our hosts suggested going to the local pub for a meal, the Pittentrail Inn, so a little later we wandered over. It was a nice place with a huge selection of whiskeys in the bar. In the end, we both had Lamb Balti with Nann biscuit, I say biscuit because they were just a 'tad' over done, none the less a super curry followed by some liquid refreshment, recommended.

When we returned to the coach later, our compartment was lovely and warm thanks to the heater under the seat so we had a very comfy night, and we needed it after today's rain!

Today's route with 188 (wet) miles travelled

Garmin trail and waypoints download for today

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