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Resistor Tuning
Simple devices to improve your motorcycles running
Created 05/12/09 - Last updated 29 July 2012
Lean times
Ever since the 1100 series Oilhead BMW's came out they've suffered from lean fuelling to meet emissions regulations, the trouble is they're fuelled so lean they don't really run that well, especially around town where my 1200RT stumbles on and off the throttle and generally gives an unsatisfactory ride. Previously there'd been no cheap and easy ways to improve this but recently new devices have become available that can enrich the mixture to improve acceleration and smooth running in general.
The way these devices work is to modify the signal the ECU gets from the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. By adding an additional resistor in to the IAT circuit the ECU can be fooled in to thinking the incoming air is colder than it actual is, this causes the ECU to increase the fuel being injected to match the denser, colder air it's expecting, and that's just what we want to improve running. And while the ECU monitors the AIT all the time, if the throttle is held steady for a while the lambda sensor comes into play and fuelling will be modified to lean burn, In theory we now have the best of both worlds, extra fuel when we want it and lean running when we don't.
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Temperature compensation
Ideally we want the same amount of additional fuel at all times, unfortunately just adding a serial resistor won't give us that 'due to the none linear characteristics of the bike's IAT sensor. With 20c as a starting point, as the air temperature drops toward 0.c the ECU will progressively reduce the additional fuel it was providing by nearly half. Conversely, as the temperature rises toward 40c it will nearly double (depending on resistor value fitted). This 'error' can be 'tuned out' to a large extent by use of an additional NTC resistor and circuitry, exactly how effective that 'compensation' is depends on the individual design of the device.
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Resistor Tuner Roundup
Here I'm looking at six resistor tuning devices I know of, they all plug in-line with the bikes IAT sensor in the airbox and all do a similar job.
The original Accelerator Module. It looks like two plugs and a piece of wire, but there are components hidden in the plugs including an NTC resistor for temperature compensation. I've tried this one on my 1200RT, read below what I thought of the bikes performance after fitting.
"Once the bikes fully warmed up riding around town I really noticed a difference. Almost all the lumpiness has gone and it will run down to 1500rpm in 2nd and gently accelerate from there easily, no-way would it have done that before. I never felt compelled to feather the clutch or coast with the clutch in because of lumpiness as it's so much smoother now. I can well imagine it could lead to less fuel being used because I was often riding the bike in a higher gear and lower rpm than I'd normally have used. It just seems to have made the whole bike sweeter to ride around town, and that's just what I wanted."
Available for F800 / HP2 / 850 / 1100 / 1150 / 1200 series BMW's
Cost: €35 inc postage and packing - Click here for makers website

2. Accelerator Module - Extended version
Possibly driven by buyers concerns that the original Accelerator Module (shown above) maybe adversely affected by raised temperatures in its location above the engine, a new extended version is now available with a remote temperature probe (like the BoosterPlug shown below). The probe is positioned away from the engine so it can monitor the ambient air temperature without being influenced by engine heat.
Available for F800 / HP2 / 850 / 1100 / 1150 / 1200 series BMW's
Cost 45€ inc postage and packing - Click here for makers website

3. BoosterPlug
Robustly made with potted components and a remote temperature probe on a .6m extension cable so you can position it away from the hot engine area. It's designed to increase fuelling by 6% during acceleration and across most ambient temperatures your ever likely to ride in. I recommend you read the makers website for more information as it's described in excellent detail.
Available for a large range of BMW motorcycles and the Triumph Tiger 1050 (fitted and working very nicely on my 1200RT).
Review on Web Bike World website click here
Cost: $14995 inc postage and packing - Click here for makers website

4. ReCyclizer
Not tried by me but I'm advised by the makers it does use a NTC resistor for temperature compensation.
Available for BMW 1100 / 1150 / 1200GS machines.
Cost: €36 inc postage and packing - Click here for makers website

5. MemJet (now seemingly unavailable)
An adjustable resistor tuner. This devices could work quite well, but you will have to find for yourself what setting is best, and you may need to tweak that setting a little if the temperature changes significantly. Not tried by me.
Available for numerous models and makes of motorcycles.
Was $190

6. Power FRK
A hugely expensive resistor tuner for which the manufacturer makes big claims... What's inside it nobody knows for sure, though I have seen an x-ray showing a circuit board and various components. There is lots of talk on various motorcycle forums doubting this devices does all it claims, basically it's silly money for a 'simple' resistor tuner. Not tried by me.
Available for numerous models and makes of motorcycles.
Cost;$322 ($293 in a current sale) - Click here for makers website

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Fitting
All these devices fit in basically the same way. You remove the electrical connection to the IAT sensor on your air filter box and plug the device in line between the cable you've just unplugged and the IAT, nothing could be simpler. The only difference is the BoosterPlug and the extended version of the Accelerator Module which requires the external temperature probe fixing somewhere where it isn't influenced by engine heat.
Location of the IAT sensor on the R1200RT
With the left side panelling removed, under the rear of the fuel tank, this is the location of the plug connector for the IAT sensor on the R1200RT,

Location of the remote temperature probe
This is important, don't place the remote temperature probe anywhere close to, or behind the engine as it will very likely be affected by engine heat. Any warming of the probe by sun or engine heat will tend to lean off the mixture again and in an extreme situation, your bike could end up running leaner than before the device was fitted.
To make sure my Booster Plug probe monitors ambient air temperature accurately I drilled a small hole in the air intake pipe to the air filter box and put the probe in there. It's now in the constantly moving air in to the engine.
Hole drilled to suite probe diameter then the drill was angled back in line with the bike to give the cable a nice entry angle.

Probe inserted, there's no need to seal the hole around the cable against air leaks.

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Acronyms used
IAT Sensor (Incoming Air Temperature sensor). A sensor for the ECU to monitor air temperature.
NTC Resistor (Negative Temperature Coefficient resistor). A type of resistor whose resistance varies with temperature exhibiting a 'negative temperature coefficient', meaning as it gets colder its resistance goes higher.
ECU (electronic control unit). The motorcycles electronic 'brain' which manages the fuel injection and engine management.
More reading
Modules, chips and resistor tuning for cars here
A German page on simple homemade resistor tuning but with no temperature compensation here
My thanks to Yonkyo who first tried the Accelerator module on the UKGS'ers forum bringing it to our attention and also Jens Lyck for technical advice.
Disclaimer
This page is offered as a information only
Any work you carry out on your motorcycle you do so entirely at your own risk
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