Home made heated grips

Created 12/03/03

I receive quite a few emails requesting information on how to make your own heated grips. So I have put this page together describing a method I used over 10 years ago to put heated grips on my R100RT. Its based on using Constantan resistance wire from Maplin.co.uk This wire is a copper/nickel mix giving a resistance of 4.2 ohm per metre, it takes solder very well so attaching your wires is not a problem. At 2.4m length the grips are on the warm side at 17.9 watts each.

Method:

Take the bar grips off on both sides. On the clutch side only, wrap with 2 layers of masking tape evenly, for electrical insulation.

Take a 2.4m length of Constantan wire and make a loop of it. Start coiling it on to the bar starting from the inside and working very evenly toward the bar end, See below, it’s a double coil so that both ends of the wire are at the end of the grip.

The diagram above is only a guide. You will have lots of windings about 3 to 4mm apart, keep them even, keep them apart. If they touch it will be a very very hot spot so take your time! You can shorten the wire for the left grip slightly as the rubber on that side is quite a bit thicker and you might want a little more heat.

As a guide to putting the windings on, form the wire in to a loop evenly, tape the loop to the bars with a small piece of masking tape, then start winding the wire. After you have got a few turns on, fix them in place temporary with a piece of tape otherwise you will go mad when they spring back, and they will!

Finally, cover the windings with one layer of masking tape, removing the temporary tape as you go.

Running the wires

You will have to provide a 12v supply up the inside of the bars (red/blue wires in the diagram) it's preferably you solder the constantan wires to the ends, you could twist them together but I don't know how long that might last. Insulate with masking tape carefully and tuck the wires neatly back up the bar end, then replace the rubber grips carefully

Important; you must make the connections on the bar end, not off the end, this is so the Constantan wire is properly supported against shorting and breakage.

To exit the wires from the bars you need to drill a hole. Unclamp the bars and twist them back toward the seat, you will have to detach the brake master cylinder and the clutch cable at least. Centre pop the bars in the middle of the bar clamps and drill a hole large enough to let the wires out, with a small round file tidy up the hole so the wires wont get cut. After the wires have been run and the bars are swung back up, the hole and wires should be mostly hidden.

If its a BMW, you might be able to wire them directly to the bikes heated grip wiring and use the 3 position switch to get two heat settings, otherwise you will have to provide your own fused supply that becomes live when the Ignition is on,

Very Important; You must protect the bikes wiring with an in line fuse. A 5a fuse should be ok.

Some Ohms law for you entertainment!

2.4m of Constantan wire = 10.08 ohms

13.5v / 10.08 ohms = 1.33Amps

13.5v x 1.33 amp = 17.9 watts, Toasty warm!

Link to an online Ohms law calculator

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