Garmin GPS Mount & Power lead

For Streetpilot, 3plus & V

Last modified 10/01/03

Garmin Streetpilot

Using the Garmin 3+ these passed few years, I always felt I was struggling to see the screen clearly. So in January 2003 the GPS was upgraded to a Mono Streetpilot found in the GPS private adverts here at the GPS Warehouse.

Riders view of the streepilot.

Below are the two GPS's side by side, the screen of the mono Streetpilot is 3x larger than the 3+

The above picture also shows the start of the new mounting, again using a Touratech mount. The method of construction is not radically different from the 3+ mounting lower down on this page. The new mount has 5.5 cm side mounts to drop it lower and further forward to achieve clearance from the screen. With the Streetpilot being much heavier than the 3+ it needed a much stronger rear support. This was achieved by doubling up the rear mounts and fixing to the fairing screws instead of the dash.
See the rear view picture lower down.

A major concern using the streetpilot was clearance for the antenna. I have a tall Secdem screen which I only lift an inch during riding. This means the antenna has to be laid over all the time its on the bike. So would the GPS work with the antenna laid over - see the pictures below for the signal strength.

Antenna up, 5 satellites locked on with good signal strength.

Antenna laid down, Still locked on, but signal strength is much reduced.

Positional accuracy (59ft) appears unchanged from having the antenna up, and in practice it works just fine.

Finally, two pictures of the new mounting.

And back view: Showing the two rear supports. Screen removed for clarity.

If you want to build a similar mount, Please read the Instructions below for the 3+ and modify as required.

Garmin GPS 3+

last modified 10/01/03

After moving on to the R1100RT in January 2002, I found I was lost for a means to mount my GPS. On the R100RT it had been mounted on a cross bar across the handlebars, but that was just not practical on this machine. I made quite a few trial mounts but none worked well, insecurity being the main problem along with vibration blurring the screen. I finally ended up with the design shown below. It's very secure and mounted just below the riders view. Feel free to use the measurements to make up your own.

Riders view

Click on thumbs below to see details of mount

GPS mount is a stripped down Touratech 

RHS mounting detail

View from rear showing back support (screen removed)

Back support detail

All metal work is spaced off from the plastic with nylon washers and on the rear mount I also used a 10mm bush

You will need:

255mm of 12mm mild steel tube (main tube)

1 x 12cm (back support) and 2 x 3.5cm (side mounts) of 2mm x 15mm mild steel strip

5.5mm drill

3 Stainless Steel Cap Head screws 5mm thread 2 x 15mm & 1 x 20mm (thread length)

Black Nylon washers to fit and 1 spacing bush for back support (I used 10mm of micro bore copper tube but anything will do)

Method

Do refer to the pictures for details of construction

Centre punch and drill the ends of the two 3.5cm side mounts using a 5.5mm drill. Tack weld these to the ends of the 255mm tube, take care both are aligned and parallel. When you are happy and the pieces are aligned O.K, add a few more tack welds to secure. 

Remove the screws from the inner side of the fairing and offer up the bar, bend the side mount in a vice or with a pair of pliers to correctly align them with the screw holes. Make sure there is room for a nylon washer between the side supports and the fairing or the plastic will be scuffed. Loosely fit with the stainless steel screws.

Drill the end of the 12mm back support with the 5.5mm drill, then bend with a sharp angle approx 2cm from the drilled end (be aware this is a compound bend, see this picture for detail) to assist you in visualising the required angle, put a long 5mm screw in to the fairing to see the angle. Offer up the back support complete with nylon washers and spacing bush. You will have to make adjustments to the back support as required. It's preferred that the support meets square on to the tube but it's not critical, just be sure the centre of the main tube is clear for the GPS mount. Now shorten the back support making sure the main tube is not touching the side of the fairing. To help you weld it in the correct position tape the two pieces together while mounted on the bike, carefully remove and tack weld with the tape in place. Remove the tape and refit the bracket to the bike. Align the screw holes, double check, remove and add a couple of welds to the back support to secure. 

All drilled holes can be cleaned up by filing, Neatly round off all parts, ensure fit to bike is good then rub down the mount with wet & dry paper. Now clean with thinners and paint with satin black aerosol paint.

Important, do not try to make the plastic parts of the bike fit your GPS mount! It will crack and break the plastic. Take your time and make sure it fits, before you tighten any screws. Any funny noises whilst you're tightening the screws, Stop and Investigate.

GPS Power Lead

This is a little fiddly to make up but well worth the effort, especially when your GPS batteries go flat 300 miles from home and its raining... hard (don't ask me how I know :-) )

The power lead is made up from a Pplug courtesy of Larry's Purple Open Project for the GPS and a Britax plug (part number 14200.00) from the local Motor Factor (this is the same pattern as the BMW plug and costs a couple of quid). Connect them together with 30cm of two core cable.

Important: Follow the instructions here when making up the lead and make absolutely sure you have the correct polarity on the GPS plug or you could fry the GPS. Before using the lead, plug it into the bike and check the polarity on the Pplug with a meter. If you use a digital meter to test swap the probes over and note the "Incorrect polarity indication" the meter gives you (often a - sign in the display) YOU are responsible for getting the polarity right...

One good thing about the bikes power socket is it remains live when the bike is completely switched off, So the GPS keeps working :-)

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